It’s a time of uncertainty in Kabul. It
’s also getting colder and when that happens, I bake and cook more because it warms up the kitchen. So while I could regale you with some theory of the current political situation and the probable outcomes, I thought I’d share something lighter. My family recipe for quince jam.
It’s quince season, or as the fruit is called in Afghanistan, “bee”. It’s not an Afghan dish per se, and I don’t know if all Afghan families make this jam, but my grandmother and mother traditionally do.
I have a quince tree in my backyard here in Kabul, which inspired this note. Raw, quince is a bitter, strange fruit, but it smells lovely. Cooked, it makes a great jam that tastes amazing with fresh, homemade Afghan bread (or muffins and croissants). Quince jam reminds me of Sunday mornings in California when my mom bakes fresh bread, which she serves with homemade jams stored in preserved jars.
You might be able to find quince jam and jellies in speciality shops in the States sold as something French or British, but I think quince is more prevalent in the greater Central Asian region.
I have to warn you. I don‘t make the applesauce version, nor am I a fan of quince jelly. My quince jam, like my mom’s, is chunky and messy.
Ingredients you will need:
- Some quince
- Caster sugar (to taste)
- Cardamom pods or fresh ground cardamom
Directions:
I don’t peel my quince (the skin will melt and become soft during the cooking process). I scrub them well until the fuzz is gone. Just like an apple, quarter and core them to remove the seeds. Dice into chewable, tiny squares, or grate with a cheese grater. Transfer to a pot, and cover with water, but not too much, just so that they are submerged. Bring to a boil for about 30 minutes. Then let rest for another 30 minutes. Next, drain the liquid and discard.
Now add sugar to the quince and one cup of water over medium heat. Generally you can add one part sugar to two parts fruit. You have to stir frequently (quince jam is a labor of love). Add cardamom pods and some fresh ground cardamom to taste. Let the quince simmer over the heat until its color changes. At the end stage, your quince will look pink with black flecks of cardamom sprinkled throughout. You’ll know your jam is ready when the excess water is gone and you have a semi thick consistency.
Serve with butter, bread and some black chai.
